![]() Long wire runs to remote batteries are a waste of weight and money, unless a battery must be located away from the engine for center-of-gravity adjustment. Mount your battery as close to the engine as weight-and-balance considerations will allow. ![]() You will have fewer problems in the long run, since poor grounding is the source of at least half of all electrical problems. Whenever possible, run a ground wire to a common grounding point in the airplane. The best choice is to not use the airframe for grounding anything. Minimize the use of the airplane structure for grounding electrical components.They work better and will give you fewer headaches down the road. Use aircraft-grade wire and components to wire your airplane.If you deviate from them, have a good reason. From time to time, there may be exceptions to these, but for the most part, they apply across the board. Here are some basic bullet points to guide you. Two books you will need to build your plane: the more general FAA AC 43.13-1B and Bob Nuckolls’s The AeroElectric Connection, which focuses exclusively on electrical systems. After that, follow some basic rules and you should be successful, even on your first attempt. You do not need to be an electrical engineer to draw your own wiring diagram, but you do need to start off with a complete knowledge of what you are going to install. Once your equipment list is complete, you’re ready to start planning your wiring. ![]() Twenty-eight-volt systems are generally lighter, which is why the big certified airplane builders go with them. Most amateur builders opt for a 14-volt system due to its likely lower cost, but you certainly do not have to follow the crowd. Different battery and alternator choices will also present themselves. But that will mean that certain items you were considering may not work. On the other hand, you may decide to go with all 28-volt equipment, which is now quite common on certified airplanes. In such a case, you must convert an appropriate amount of 14-volt power to the higher voltage, or better yet, find a substitute for the odd item on your list. You may decide that it is best to go with a 14-volt system but want to use one thing that requires 28 volts. Voltage must be considered because many items will work with 14 or 28 volts, but some will not. Red connectors are for 18- to 22-gauge wires, blue are for 16- and 14-gauge wires, and yellow are for 12- and 10-gauge wires. Connectors shown here include (bottom) ring-tongue or loop connectors and (right) splice connectors. A ratcheting crimper is recommended for crimp-on connectors such as these.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |